As home to the most famous landmark in Rome, today Celio is better known as Colosseum. It's not surprising – the amphitheatre casts a wide shadow across almost all of the district, not least for the heaving masses of tourists that collect at its heels all year round. But take a few steps east of the Colosseum itself, and you enter a laid-back, unpretentious area of Rome, home to the city's vibrant gay scene and not much else. San Clemente is a highlight – a Russian doll of a church, built on a church, built on a Mithras temple – and for those in search of Eastern serenity, Lino Miele welcomes students to his internationally renowned ashtanga yoga studio. While hordes of tourists buzz nearby, this is a simple area dominated by contented locals, perfect for a slice of authenticity within easy reach of the major sights.