As home to arguably the most famous landmark in Rome, today Celio is better known as Colosseum. It's not surprising - the amphitheatre casts a wide shadow across almost all of the district, not least for the heaving masses of tourists that collect at its heels all year round. But take a few steps east of the Colosseum itself, and you enter a laid back, unpretentious area of Rome, home to the city's quietly vibrant gay scene and not that much else. San Clemente is a highlight - a Russian nesting doll of a church built on a church built on a Mithras temple, and for those in search of Eastern serenity, Lino Miele welcomes students to his internationally renowned ashtanga yoga studio. While hordes of tourists buzz nearby, this is a humble area dominated by contented locals, perfect for a slice of authenticity within easy reach of the major sights.