To the southwest of bohemian Trastevere lies Monteverde Vecchio, a largely residential quarter that swaps the crowds for wide, peaceful streets and hills. Whilst it is a bit too far to walk to the city’s main attractions, there are trams that run to Piazza Venezia so it’s fairly easy to get to the centre, at least during the day. Life is definitely slower here than elsewhere in Rome, but that’s not necessarily a problem and Monteverde Vecchio itself hides several excellent places to relax and pass the time. The grounds of Villa Doria Pamphilj, for example, are the largest park in the city and contain some beautifully landscaped sculpture gardens, while a simple stroll through the elegant 20th century villas brings its own reward.
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